The Ultimate Guide to Chamkarmon
Welcome to Chamkarmon, the dynamic southern heart of modern Phnom Penh. It’s a district of compelling contrasts—where shimmering skyscrapers reflect ancient pagodas, and the buzz of 21st-century creativity lives alongside profound 20th-century history.
Chamkarmon at a Glance
To understand the district’s scale and identity, here are the key facts. This is the Chamkarmon of today, following the 2019 administrative split that created the separate Khan Boeng Keng Kang.
From Mulberry Farm to Metropolis
The name ‘Chamkarmon’ translates to “Mulberry Farm,” a pastoral image that belies its modern identity. The district’s story is Phnom Penh’s story.
The French laid its grand boulevards, establishing it as a key governmental and residential zone. This life was brutally halted in 1975 when the Khmer Rouge forcibly evacuated the city. A local high school, Tuol Svay Prey, was infamously transformed into Security Prison 21 (S-21), now the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.
Following a slow recovery, the 21st century ignited a modern renaissance, reshaping its skyline and forging the dynamic, multifaceted district we see today.
Navigating the Neighborhoods
Modern Chamkarmon is a district of five distinct sangkats (communes), each with a unique vibe. Explore the map below to see the key areas, from the diplomatic hub of Tonle Bassac to the bohemian heart of Toul Tum Poung.
Toul Tum Poung: The Expat Haven
The undeniable heart of this area is Phsar Toul Tom Poung, known globally as the Russian Market. This labyrinthine market is a treasure trove for shoppers, offering everything from souvenirs and silks to factory-outlet clothing and incredible street food.
In recent years, it has become one of the city’s most popular hubs for expats, known for its inspiring entrepreneurs, community feel, and countless independent cafes and restaurants.
Tonle Bassac: The Powerhouse
This sangkat is Phnom Penh’s diplomatic and commercial heart, home to embassies, government buildings, and high-end condos. It’s the district’s undisputed center for entertainment, dominated by landmarks like AEON Mall 1 and the massive NagaWorld hotel and casino complex.
The nightlife is famously centered around Bassac Lane (Street 308), a dense, atmospheric cluster of unique cocktail bars and international restaurants that draws a diverse crowd every night.
Living in Chamkarmon: Rental Costs
Chamkarmon offers a broad range of rental prices, generally providing more accessible options than the adjacent, ultra-premium Boeng Keng Kang district. Prices in Tonle Bassac typically trend toward the higher end of these ranges.
Practical Info for Residents & Visitors
What is the security risk in Chamkarmon?
Chamkarmon has a nuanced security environment. Areas like Tonle Bassac are highly secure due to a heavy presence of embassies, government buildings, and private guards.
However, like any major urban area, opportunistic street crime is a risk. The most common issue is bag and phone snatching by thieves on motorbikes. Always avoid displaying valuables openly, carry bags on the side away from the road, and keep belongings in the center of a tuk-tuk, away from the open sides.
How do I get around the district?
By far the most convenient method is using ride-hailing apps like Grab and the local PassApp. You can book a car or an auto-rickshaw at a fixed, transparent price.
Traditional tuk-tuks and motodops (motorbike taxis) can be hailed from the street, but you must negotiate the fare beforehand.
What’s the best time to visit?
The climate is tropical, hot, and humid year-round. The most pleasant time to visit is during the “cool” dry season from November to February. Temperatures are more moderate, making it ideal for exploring.
The rainy season lasts from May to November, and the hottest months are March to May, when temperatures can be extreme.
Chamkarmon Declassified
From the creative chaos of the Russian Market to the high-rise glitz of Tonle Bassac. This is the true expat heart of Phnom Penh.
The 2025 Borders
First, a correction. Many guides are outdated. BKK1 is no longer in Chamkarmon (it split in 2019). Today, Chamkarmon is defined by two distinct vibes: the River (East) and the Market (West).
Toul Tum Poung (TTP)
Often called “Russian Market,” this is the creative hub. Narrow lanes filled with motorcycle mechanics, trendy cafes, and the city’s best street food. It feels dusty, authentic, and alive.
Tonle Bassac
The riverside face of the district. Home to Aeon Mall 1, the massive NagaWorld complex, and Bassac Lane—a micro-neighborhood of hidden bars and nightlife.
Rental Intelligence (2025 Estimates)
Prices have stabilized. TTP offers better value for space, while Tonle Bassac charges a premium for views and security.